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Raising Guinea Fowl !

Many people have never seen, much less heard of, guinea fowl. Visitors, on spying their first guinea, invariably ask "What is that—a turkey?" Nope, but not a bad guess. Like turkeys, guineas are Galliformes, a group encompassing all chicken-like birds. But while chickens are members of the pheasant family, turkeys and guineas each have a family of their own. Native to Africa, they are known for traveling in large, gregarious flocks. Guinea fowl were introduced into Europe by 15th century Portuguese explorers, and then arrived in North America with the early settlers. There are seven species of guinea fowl, of which the "helmeted pearl" is by far the most common, and certainly the weirdest looking, with its oddly shaped helmet, white, featherless face, bright red wattles, and gray polka-dotted feathers.

Ask those who keep guineas why they have them and you'll get a different answer every time. Chicken and turkey farmers keep them to ward off poultry-eating predators. Ranchers turn them loose to discourage rattlers and copperheads. Country dwellers like the way they gobble down disease-carrying ticks. Orchardists use them to drive off marauding birds. Farmers put them to work patrolling for row crop pests. Guineas do all this without damaging crops. Sure, they'll take the occasional peck at a cultivated plant, but they much prefer insects, weeds, and seeds.

Free-ranging guineas spend most of their days foraging. They work as a team, marching chest to chest and devouring anything they startle as they move through the grass. When they discover a special treat—a rodent, for example, or a small snake—they close ranks, circle their prey, and move in for the feast. All the while, they keep up a steady stream of whistles, chirps, and clicks, a sort of running commentary on the day's hunt.

But these little foragers have their faults. Like chickens, guineas are natural-born scratchers—I once watched a week-old guinea scratch vigorously in a saucer of starter mash while others stood by trying to catch bits of mash sailing through the air. Nevertheless, a guinea doesn't scratch as enthusiastically or as persistently as a chicken, and is far less likely to dig up garden seedlings, although they are attracted to freshly worked soil and will spend hours digging holes for luxurious dustbaths. Once I acquired a whole flock of guineas simply by arriving on the scene moments after they had devastated a friend's blossoming snap beans.

In addition to the minor inconveniences caused by dusting and occasional scratching, guineas have other characteristics that some people find somewhat less than endearing. For one thing, the hens lay only seasonally, and the young are quite delicate. Guineas are also a noisy bunch, making them a poor choice where high-strung neighbors live nearby. Because of their continuous conversations, guineas cannot be snuck into housing developments as chickens often are. It's probably best because guineas don't take kindly to confinement; they much prefer the freedom to prowl their home base. In this respect, a guinea has the same independence as a barn-born cat—it'll eat your food and tolerate your presence, but a guinea will never be your best friend.

Goat Towers : An Idea Whose Time Has Come

A set of towers, spread across the globe, have given goats the opportunity to make good on their evolutionary heritage and farmers a chance to leave an unforgettable impression on visitors. And don't worry -- there hasn't been a single report of the goats falling.

While we might be used to seeing goats grazing on a mostly two-dimensional pasture, the animals are not strangers to heights. Moroccan goats have been seen climbing trees and the internet has gone gaga over photos of wild goats in precarious places.

Sometime in the 19th century, Fernando Guedes da Silva da Fonseca decided to give his livestock a place to make good on their heritage. He tucked his Torres das Cabras into a leafy enclave at Aveleda, a famed winery in the Vinho Verde region of Portugal.

No one recognized the brilliance of his idea for about a century, when Charles Back decided to build a goat tower of his own at Fairview Wine and Cheese in South Africa in 1981. The tower now serves as a playground for the 750 Saanen milk goats at and has also become of the most identifiable aspect of the Fairview brand.

A number of farmers worldwide have copied the idea since. David Johnson built the 31-foot “The Tower of Baa” at his farm in Findlay, Illinois. Ekeby farm brought a tower of their own to Norway and made it the central pillar of most of their marketing materials. Endres Manufacturing Company in Waunakee, Wisconsin built the first steel goat tower when they had some extra time at the machine shop because, why not?

Last but not least, Silky O’Sullivan’s bar in Memphis, Tennessee has also jumped on the goat tower band wagon for the amusement of both their patrons and their goats. The goats there might be having a bit having a bit too much fun. One blog post at Atlas Obscura reports that customers let the goats have a sip or two of their beers before the animals climb the tower.

You can go ahead and call them follies (apparently, that’s what you actually call this sort of European garden structure). But regardless of human opinions, the goats seems to love the vertical elements.

Feeding Horses that are Hard Keepers

Much like teenage boys, some horses seem to be able to devour every bit of feed in sight, and still not gain weight. Unlike the teenage boys, however, and unfortunately for the owners of these hard keepers, this generally isn’t just a stage that the horse is going through. So, what is the best way to feed a horse to increase weight gain to the desired level, and then maintain it there?

First, start by taking a Body Condition Score and determining the current weight of the horse, and tracking those two elements over time, so you can know for sure if you are making progress or not. It’s easy to fall in to the trap of trying to remember what the horse was like a couple months ago, so a tracking program will help give a fact basis to your feeding program.

Second, weigh both the hay and any grain you are feeding your horse. A bathroom scale can do the trick, or especially handy is a fish or luggage scale that you can hang a bucket from. Every barn has a different scoop, from the old reliable coffee can to a plastic scoop purchased at the feed store. Weighing the scoop, then weighing it with the feed in it, allows you to mark your scoop so you can see where to fill it to for various feeds & weights of that feed. Note that not all feeds weigh the same, either, so measure each one independently.

Third, ensure that the horse is receiving enough forage in the diet. This is the base of any feeding program, and a good target is to be feeding 1.5% of body weight in forages. For a 1000 lb horse, that means at least 15 lbs of hay. Weigh a few flakes of hay and see just what a flake is from your supplier. Not all small square bales are created equally!

Fourth is the grain portion of the diet. A key thing to look at in evaluating feeds for hard keepers is the “Crude Fat” content of a feed. A basic corn/oats/mineral sweet feed mix will likely run around 2.5-3.0% fat, since that is what is naturally present in a lot of grains. These are fine for easier keepers, but many active horses need more – there are a variety of horse feeds on the market today that are in the 6-7% fat range, and a few horse feeds even reach up to the 12% fat range. Remember to feed within the guidelines printed on the tag, so that you get the nutrition portion of the diet correct. Start your horse on a higher fat diet slowly to allow them to adjust to the increased fat, and work up to a level where the weight starts to come on. Once you’ve reached a desirable weight and body condition, you can begin to back off the amount fed until you determine the amount of feed that will help maintain your horse for the long haul.

How to Choose Good Quality Wheat

Wheat is mainly utilized for consumption. Wheat is transformed into flour so that human can consume it through various methods. Wheat is mainly utilized for making bread and also other bakery items. Owing to its high rates, the utilization of wheat is limited for animal feed and industrial purposes. Today wheat is grown throughout the world. It is adaptable to diverse elevation, climates and soils. But when it comes to select good quality wheat then it should be selected on the basis of quality aspects mentioned below.

Wheat quality mainly has two aspects. The foremost is the physical quality, which refers to freedom from foreign matter, soundness of wheat and cleanliness. The second is the processing quality, which means suitability for diverse uses. These aspects should be considered while selecting good quality wheat. However, wheat is categorized according to the protein content and the texture of the endosperm. The way the grain breaks down while milling depends on the texture of the endosperm. The property of the flour and its suitability for diverse uses depends on the protein content.

The endosperm texture may be vitreous or mealy. The mealy or vitreous character is hereditary, but is not affected by the environment. Therefore, einkorn wheat, emmer wheat and macaroni wheat are some wheat with vitreous kernels, whereas club wheat and bread wheat are mealy. Vitreous kernels are translucent and look bright under strong light while mealy kernels are opaque and look dark under similar situations.

Wheat types are mainly categorized as soft or hard and as weak or strong. Vitreous wheat is strong and hard in nature while the mealy wheat is weak and soft however the association is not invariable. Hardness is related to the degree of adhesion between protein and starch. Softness and hardness refer to the way in which the endosperm breaks down while milling. World wheat's are arranged to their degree of hardness as extra hard, hard, medium and soft.

The strength of wheat relates to its baking quality. Strong wheat can be used to create good crumb structure, big loaf volume and high-quality keeping qualities. This type of wheat is rich in protein. Hard wheat is used to produce flour that we use in our day to day life and to produce bread. The weak wheat possess low protein contain and this kind of wheat can only produce small loaf that too with coarse crumb structure. This kind of wheat is perfect for manufacturing cakes and biscuits but they are unsustainable for bread preparation.

Whole wheat is ground for individual use by the families. Whole wheat is mainly utilized for the production of unleavened bread across the globe. It is estimated that very less nutrient loss occurs in such type of production. Typically, every consumer prefers to purchase the variety that caters their requirements in regards to performance. You will not find loads of information about the performance of diverse varieties in indigenous wheat preparations. Consequently, selection is completely based on experience and personal knowledge of the consumer.

How to Store Green Beans !

Green beans, also known as string beans or snap beans, are in the same family as shell beans, such as pinto beans, black beans and kidney beans. Yet unlike their cousins, green beans’ entire bean, pod and seed, can be eaten. Green beans range in size, but they usually average four inches in length and are deep emerald green in color. They contain tiny seeds within their thin pods. Green beans are fat, sodium, and cholesterol free. They are also a good source of Vitamins C, A, and K.

How to Select and Store

If possible, purchase green beans at a store or farmer’s market that sells them loose so that you can sort through them to choose the beans of best quality. Purchase beans that have a smooth feel and a vibrant green color, and that are free from brown spots or bruises. They should have a firm texture and “snap” when broken.

Store unwashed fresh beans pods in a plastic bag kept in the refrigerator crisper. Whole beans stored this way should keep for about seven days.

Many people wonder about the possibility of freezing green beans, or purchasing green beans that have already been frozen. Both options can work—green beans are definitely a vegetable that can be frozen. We’ve seen several research studies on the nutritional consequences of freezing green beans, and most studies show the ability of green beans to retain valuable amounts of nutrients for 3-6 months after freezing. If you don’t have fresh green beans available on a year-round basis, purchasing frozen green beans can definitely provide you with a nutritionally valuable option.

If you wish to freeze green beans we recommend that you steam the green beans for 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat and let them cool thoroughly before placing them in freezer bags and storing them in your freezer.

It is good to remember that the passage of time appears to lessen the concentration of multiple nutrients. There appears to be less nutrient loss at 3 months than at 6 months, and you may want to limit your freezer storage of green beans (whether frozen at home or pre-purchased in frozen form) to about 3 months for this reason.

Biggest Natural Melon on Earth !

On Saturday, September 3rd, 2005, a small crowd gathered to watch a melon grown by Lloyd Bright being weighed at Hope Farm Store. After an almighty effort it was heaved onto the scales and nervous onlookers held their breath as the weigh-in began.

Lloyd’s vegetable behemoth was declared to be an incredible 268.8lbs – over 6lbs more than the previous record of 262lbs, held by a Tennessee man. Just a few months later, The Guinness Book of Records certified the success: this was, officially, the largest melon the Earth had ever seen – once again grown by the Bright family, a line who are amply proud of their wondrous melons!

What could be more delicious on a hot summer day than a fresh, juicy watermelon? Well, you might think twice before attempting to eat an entire giant watermelon… after all, these melons aren’t made for eating; they’re made for showing. And when it comes to that, big really is best.

Recognizing the Signs of a Sick Goat

Your goats will let you know when something’s wrong, but you need to recognize the signs. You need to investigate further or begin taking action if you see the following signs of illness:

Not chewing cud

Not getting up

Pressing her head against wall or fence

Not eating

Feces aren’t pelleted

Not urinating or straining to urinate

Not drinking

Pale or grey eyelids or gums

Hot udder

Limping or staggering

Ears held oddly

Isolating himself from the herd

Grinding teeth

Coughing

Unusual crying

Runny nose or eyes

Providing Adequate Fencing for Your Goats

If you've decided to raise goats to green up your lifestyle, you need to provide good fencing to keep them in and to keep predators out. You can also use fencing to protect your trees and shrubs from goats. Adequate fencing means different things in different situations. If you have kids and adult goats, you need to make sure the kids can't get through the fencing and the adults can't get over it.

Goats love to rub on walls and fences. If you put in new fencing, make sure you set your fence posts deep enough. Wooden posts need to be at least two feet deep. If you're using metal T-posts, make sure to pound them in past the V at the bottom that holds them in the ground.

If you have an area with existing fencing, walk the fence line and

Inspect the fence for holes in or under it: Patch holes in the fence and fill or block holes under it.

Check each fence post to make sure it's solidly set: Replace, add a new post, or solidify the weak one.

Measure to see whether the fence is high enough: A 4-foot fence is adequate in most cases. If it isn't, add a strand or two of electric wire or fence it higher.

Determine whether any trees need to be fenced out or around: Keep goats away from trees you don't want eaten or that are poisonous.

If you need to put in new fencing or replace fencing, you have a variety of fencing types to choose from:

Field fencing: Field fencing, or woven wire, attached to metal T-posts is probably the most common type of fencing for goats. It's moderately expensive and is sturdy if installed properly. A four-foot-high field fence will keep miniature goats in but isn't high enough for a determined bigger goat. A strand of electric wire along the top and 10 inches off the ground usually keeps all goats in.

Cattle or hog panels: Galvanized cattle panel with graduated spacing makes excellent fences for goats. The panels are 50 inches high. You can add a strand or two of electric wire along the top for larger goats. To keep in miniature goat kids you may need to reinforce with chicken wire or woven wire along the bottom.

Electric wire: Electric wire is an excellent addition to any of the other types of fencing. The wire and insulators are inexpensive; the biggest cost is the charger and ground rod. A strand along the top helps keep predators out and goats and livestock guardian dogs in.

Use a 4,000-volt charger for goat fencing. If your fencing isn't near a power source, get a solar charger. Place the grounding rod in a location that is as dry as possible. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for grounding and charger placement.

Avoid using barbed wire or wood fences for goats. Goats can get injured by the barbs.

How to Protect Your Goats from Poisonous Plants

Goats will eat almost anything, but you must guard against your goats eating poisonous plants. Goats ignore poisonous plants most of the time, but because of their need to browse, they may try them just for variety. Whether a goat that eats a poisonous plant shows signs of poisoning depends on how much of the plant it eats, what part of the plant it eats, the condition of the plant (fresh or dried), the time of year, and the size and health of the goat.

Some of the common poisonous plants that might grow in your pasture or backyard include:

Weeds

Bracken fern

Buttercup

Common milkweed

Foxglove

Lantana

Locoweed

Poke weed

Spurge

St. John's Wort

Water hemlock and poison hemlock

Trees

Cyanide-producing trees such as cherry, chokecherry, elderberry, and plum (especially the wilted leaves from these trees)

Ponderosa pine

Yew

Cultivated plants

Azalea

Kale

Lily of the valley

Oleander

Poppy

Potato

Rhododendron

Rhubarb

Many landscaping plants are poisonous, and a few are so deadly that even a few leaves can make your goat extremely sick. Don't believe the old wives' tale that goats always know which plants are poisonous. Before you bring your goats home, check your yard for poisonous plants. The best resource for doing so is A Guide to Plant Poisoning of Animals in North America (Teton New Media), by Anthony P. Knight and Richard Walter. You can find many chapters of it online at the http://www.ivis.org). If your goats can get their heads through a fence to the neighbor's yard, make sure that poisonous plants aren't growing within reach there.

If you find any of these plants, either remove them or make sure that your fencing will keep your goats away. If the poison plant is a tree, make sure that the leaves won't fall into the pen in the autumn by removing the tree or situating the pen far from the tree. Dried leaves can be the most deadly part of the tree.

You usually don't need to freak out if one of your goats eats a little taste of any of these plants or trees, but you do need to keep an eye on him in case he shows signs of sickness.

Talk to your neighbors about poisonous plants and ask them not to throw their garden trimmings into the yard as a treat for your goats without asking first.

How to Train a Goat to Pull a Cart

Whether you're raising goats as part of a green lifestyle or using goats as part of a 4-H project, you can train your goats to pull a cart. First, you teach a goat to pull an empty cart. Take plenty of time with training, and train the goat away from other goats and distractions so you can both focus and avoid problems.

Before you train a goat to pull a cart, make sure that he is accustomed to being handled and is calm.

Train him on a bridle using these steps:

1.Let him sniff and mouth the bridle.

2.Put the bridle on his head, tightening all straps.

Praise the goat and give him a treat.

3.Take him for a walk while he’s wearing the bridle.

Do this every day for a week so he can get used to wearing the bridle.

4.After he’s gotten used to the bridle, attach the reins.

Take him for a walk and hold the reins so he can get used to them. Now he is ready for both.

After your goat is used to the bridle, get him used to wearing a harness. The first time you put the harness on him, put his collar and bridle on first. To train him to use a harness, take the following steps:

1.Let him sniff and mouth the harness so he gets used to it.

2.Put the harness on him.

Tighten the cinch strap, and then fasten the breast strap, and finally fasten the rump strap. Praise the goat and give him a treat.

3.Take him on a walk, using the collar to attach the lead.

Give your goat several opportunities to get used to wearing the harness.

4.After he has gotten used to the harness, attach the lead to the harness instead of the collar.

Intermittently, gently pull on the harness to simulate the feeling of a cart being pulled. Praise the goat and give a treat.

5.Take your goat on a walk while he is wearing the harness and bridle with reins, and teach him to stop, go, and turn to the left and right.

When you want him to stop, say “Whoa” or “Stop.” Pull the reins if your goat doesn’t stop. Say “Go” or “Walk” when you want him to go and “Left” to go left and “Right” to go right. Practice these commands every day for a week or so, rewarding your goat when he complies, until he gets it.

6.Practice with a travois.

Before you get a real cart, you need to simulate a cart in a safer way. Attach a travois to the harness and take your goat through the commands. To make a travois, get two long poles and a shorter pole and lash them together into a triangular shape. Practice with a travois for a week or so before attaching your goat to a cart or wagon.

7.Attach your goat to a cart.

Let your goat look at and smell the cart. When he loses interest in it, hook him up and go.

Norwegian dairy goat

The breed originates from the north-European landrace. The introduction of other breeds has been minimal the last decades except from some import of saanen goat. Previous the Norwegian goat was divided into a lot of geographical breeds/ types i.e. telemark goat, doele goat, western goat and nordland goat. Today, it’s a genetic connection between all the areas in Norway as a consequence of modern breeding work and extensive use of AI. Because of this, the dairy goat in Norway was denoted as one common breed at the early 1990’s. 

The variation is huge. Both horned and natural polled exists. Short and long shag exists and it’s a huge variation in amount of cashmere wool.It is found in gray, blue, white or pied coloration. A huge variation in markings and colour combinations. Average adult weight: 50 kilo. 

Milk production: 577 kg/ year (2,94 % protein, 3,50 % fat and 4,23 % lactose).

How to Raise a Pig on a Farm

Raising pigs from cute piglets to large hogs can be a rewarding experience. Pigs are some of the most intelligent animals on the farm, but also some of the most odiferous. They can be welcome playmates to children, sold or served for Sunday dinner. With care and daily attention you can raise pigs as pets or for profit.

Instructions

1.Provide adequate housing for your pig. The structure can be a prefabricated pig house or an A-frame structure within a fenced paddock. According to the University of Wisconsin, a nursery pig requires at least 3 to 4 square feet of space on a solid floor or 2 to 4 square feet for a slotted floor in the housing. Pigs up to 150 pounds require 6 square feet of housing and another 6-square-foot paddock. Pigs that weigh 150 to 265 pounds will need 8 to 10 square feet of both housing and paddock. Author and livestock expert Laura Childs suggests using concrete flooring with a drain in one corner of the pig housing to ease cleaning.

2.Place sandy pasture soil in the paddock. Include deep straw bedding in the housing for the pigs to burrow in during cooler months. Place a self-feeder and waterer in the housing or paddock. The Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association recommends providing toys to satisfy your pig's curious nature.

3.Maintain a comfortable temperature for your pig. According to the University of Wisconsin, the optimal temperature range is 80 to 85 degrees for piglets, 70 to 75 degrees for weaned pigs and 60 to 70 degrees for finisher pigs. You will need heat lamps or heat pads for the winter months.

4.Feed your pig a grain mix that is high in nutrients with 16 percent protein. The average young pig will eat about 2.75 lbs. of feed a day. Feed once a day or break the grain into 2 portions. Pigs will free-eat throughout the day.

5.Clean the pig barn area daily. If you have a drain you can spray the concrete flooring with a water hose and drain away the waste. Or you can shovel the solids and mop the flooring.

6.Take your pig to a livestock veterinarian. The vet will inform you about which vaccines are necessary in your area and will provide the pig with a necessary wormer. Pigs require a wormer at 40 to 50 pounds and again at 100 pounds.

Advantages Of Raising Chickens

1. Costs incredibly cheap.

When we say cheap, not only does the chicken itself count but also the maintenance of it all. Compared to keeping a dog or a cat for a pet, it is much cheaper to take care of a number of chickens most likely because they are not choosy when it comes to food. You can feed them scraps and table leftovers and they will happily gobble it up. With as little as $2 a day, you can spend on a bunch of layer mash.

2. You can get something from them.

Eggs. Meat. Ornament. Who wouldn’t want it? In terms of eggs, it is seldom that you encounter a chicken that can’t lay eggs. It is a good source of iron, which is good for the brain. You could either sell these eggs or keep them in your fridge. With meat, every part of a chicken can be eaten. Yes, every. In cases of those who don’t want to see their chickens go bye-bye, they raise them as pets and for exhibition purposes.

3. Low maintenance.

Unlike dogs who need everyday grooming and cats who need your undivided attention, chickens need none of those. You don’t have to bring them to your vet every once in a while to take shots and doses of vaccines. All you have to do is feed them and supply clean water every day. Their coops must be cleaned at least once a week or twice every month depending on the number of chickens that you own.

4. Fertilizers for free and an instant pest control agent.

These are the two things that chicken raisers love about owning a chicken. When you allow your chickens to roam around your backyard, it is in their nature to peck on whatever it is that catches their interest and their hunger. Chickens love anything that came from the ground most especially the ones that are moving. They eat insects, bugs, worms and the like. For them, these are special treats. Furthermore, it is in their nature to eradicate their internal wastes anywhere they please. But their poops are considered as natural fertilizers that the ground needs to grow plants and root crops in a healthy state.

NordMilk - a new network with a focus on characterization of milk from Nordic cattle breeds

Researchers from Norway, Sweden, Finland and Denmark, specializing in the analysis of #milk, in collaboration with NordGen #Farm #Animals, have established a network focusing on the characterization of #milk from the Nordic #cattle #breeds. More Nordic and Baltic countries are expected to join the network in the future.

At a recent meeting in Oslo, researchers from the Nordic countries together with NordGen established a network with a focus on working with milk from old cattle breeds. Researchers in the network will benefit from the shared expertise that exists in the Nordic countries in this field of research, and work together on common applications, collection, storage and analyses of samples, knowledge sharing and publishing.

The research groups involved are specialists in analyzing the chemical composition and characteristics of milk important for different types of dairy products, such as cheese and yogurt. Previous studies performed on milk from Holstein, Jersey and Swedish Red cows have shown clear effects of breed on the milk contents. Milk from the native Nordic cattle breeds has never been studied systematically. Therefore, there is a need to characterize and document whether milk from the native Nordic breeds differs from that of the modern breeds, and whether unique characteristics of importance for cheese making properties and human health are found in the milk from the Nordic breeds.

NordGen appreciates that the network assists Nordic countries to meet the international obligations on genetic resources. The Nordic countries have committed themselves to work for the conservation of biological diversity, sustainable use of genetic resources and the fair and equitable sharing of the benefits that are provided through genetic resources. An important step towards accomplishing these obligations is documentation of the distinctive features of local breeds that can be exploited commercially. Unique and favorable milk properties would permit product development that could benefit consumers and create an economic base and incentive for farmers to keep animals of local breeds. This will in turn contribute to the conservation of these breeds and biodiversity in its entirety. 

For the present, the network runs until 2015. Applications for funds that can finance the planned research are currently being written by all the groups involved.

Norwegian Forest Cat !

The #Norwegian #forest #cat is native to the Scandinavian regions of Northern Europe, with the Norwegian forest cat having adapted to the colder climates of the near polar regions.

The Norwegian forest cat has long thick #fur, which is in a double-layer to keep the #cat warm in the uncompromising winters. The Norwegian forest cat also has a thick layer of fat insulating its body.

The Norwegian forest cat was only distinguished as a special breed of cat in the 1900s, up until then it was simply another type of house cat. The Norwegian forest cat is today #bred for #cat shows and awards in both Europe and America.

The Norwegian Forest cat is one of the largest #breeds of domestic cat, generally reaching more than a meter in length. The Norwegian forest cat has a heavy body due to its large size and can often be more than twice the weight of other domestic cat breeds.